Restaurant Review: Traiteur
Traiteur’s interior instantly creates an alluring atmosphere, the impossibly high ceilings and theatrical lighting feel like a scaled-down version of a grand auditorium. The wood panelling engulfs the interior, creating the illusion of dining inside wooden origami. The open kitchen makes you feel like you’re watching artists at work, and the aromas emanating from the workspace set your taste buds in motion.
Manning the kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Simon Wipf, who has been a central part of Traiteur’s enduring success under his predecessor, before taking the reins himself early this year. His new menu is packed with seasonal favourites delivered in classic French style – a mix of both rich and indulgent flavours and light elements that whisper across the palate. Not to be missed are the duck foie gras terrine with strawberry, rhubarb and Sarawak pepper – we can vouch for this – and the assorted tomatoes with grape vinegar, buffalo mozzarella and olive tapenade. Chef Simon’s personal twist on salade Niçoise also gets rave reviews and is a showcase of his distinctive cooking style. His delicately constructed main courses include pan-fried sea bass with artichokes and girolles, and pan-fried cod fish with braised leek and garlic broth. It’s worth a revisit (or three) to make your way through the menu. In the meantime, you can recreate some of Traiteur’s magic chez vous with these three luscious dishes.
INFO: Traiteur, Park Hyatt Dubai; dinner served from 7pm to 12pm Sunday to Friday, 04 317 2222, www.parkhyatt.com.