Restaurant review: Novikov, Sheraton Grand Dubai
Let me make this really simple for you: the two dishes you must try at Novikov are the signature Peking duck and the eggplant and tomato salad. The latter comprises chunky slices of fried pulpy eggplant laced with a rich sweet sticky miso reduction (the sliced tomato doesn’t bring anything to the party; ignore it if you like). The duck is served in a neat glazed grid, with thin delicate squares of crispy skin balancing on chunks of lean meat. It’s phenomenal. The traditional pancakes, Peking sauce and strips of cucumber and spring onion are offered on the side, but I prefer to eat the duck with the eggplant, as they go together better than Posh and Becks.
Order these two dishes before ordering anything else. Your waiter will recommend sharing a couple of starters and one main per person, but all dishes come at once and the A/C is on high, so hot food won’t stay that way for long. Besides, there isn’t enough room on the tables for more plates.
Still hungry? The Portuguese razor clams with chilli, coriander and garlic are tasty and a bit different – they’re like elongated clams with more bite. And you can’t go wrong with new-style sashimi such as the Hamachi carpaccio – slivers of raw fish in yuzu and black truffle dressing.
I’m still kicking myself – having eaten all that I didn’t have space for dessert. I had been eyeing up the ‘Miso Banoffee V2’, poached banana in vanilla toffee with miso caramel ice cream, peanut butter crumble and warm chocolate mousse – even the words taste nice.
Ultimately, this is a classic Asian-themed ‘party restaurant’ from the company who brought us Toko and Sass Café. Vino starts at Dhs50 a glass, and as well as the non-smoking area around the open kitchen and sushi bar, there’s a smoking section and long bar. Thankfully, the lighting is well thought out – you can actually see your food, which I find is rare in this sort of place, while the rest of the room remains dimly lit.
INFO: Sheraton Grand Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 04 388 8744, Reservations@Novikov-Dubai.com, novikov-dubai.com
Starter: Edamame, Dhs20
Main: Salmon Teriyaki, Dhs80
Dessert: Sorbet, Dhs28
Starter: Langoustine tartar, Dhs210
Main: Wagyu rump, Dhs525
Dessert: Chocolate fondant, Dhs55
Aubergine and Tomato Salad