Restaurant Review: Enigma Part 2!

Palazzo Versace's unique dining concept entices a second Michelin-starred chef to Dubai
BySarah Hedley HymersWednesday , 11 May 2016
Restaurant Review: Enigma Part 2!
Enigma
In case you don’t know the concept by now, Enigma restaurant plans to bring four top-ranking chefs to the venue every year, each bringing their own menu and theme, as part of an unfolding ‘Untold Story’. In the second instalment of this culinary tale, Swedish two-Michelin-starred chef Bjorn Frantzen has brought a Nordic flavour to the UAE; key ingredients include lingonberry, reindeer, white moss and liquorice, as well as traditional Swedish knäckebröd (crispbread).
 
The meal comes with a booklet that beautifully explains Bjorn’s pantry. Lingonberries are usually made into jam and served with meatballs in Sweden, apparently – but Bjorn is using them to add acidity and sweetness to a foie gras macaroon, an idea he first served up at his eponymous restaurant back home in 2010. Diners can even read about the nutritional benefits of this berry (such is the detail in the guide), and this amount of info is given for every dish. Food geeks will love it!
 
Also to be found on this 12-course menu are fantastical curiosities from the white moss ‘sushi’ with deer, frozen bird’s liver and burnt hay, to the smoked ice cream with roasted nuts, tar syrup, salted fudge and cloves. Dubai has never experienced anything like it before, and though the descriptions may be off-putting (frozen bird’s liver?!), each course is just one mouthful and the flavours blend harmoniously in all but one of the courses; the liquorice dish overpowered my taste buds, but then I’ve never been a fan of that herbaceous perennial legume.
 
INFO: 7pm-11.30pm Mon-Sat, Palazzo Versace Dubai, Culture Village, Al Jadaf, Dubai, 04 556 8888, enigma@palazzoversace.ae, enigmadxb.com 

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