Restaurant Review: Tresind
Tresind’s vast open plan comprising of dining area and lounge is a stark contrast of dark and low-lit elegance in its bar area, and bright and airy ambience in which to enjoy the food. Despite our late arrival at the beginning of the weekend, the restaurant is still moderately full, with groups celebrating birthdays and enjoying end of the week catch up’s with friends. It’s true that to enjoy a cuisine to its full potential, you should head to the places that natives of the country frequent, and given Tresind’s audience, it seems that this is the place to be.
Hailing from India ourselves, we know that it is going to be tough for Tresind to impress. Without meaning to sound arrogant, we are from a heritage of people who can marry flavours and spices to perfection. However, we are intrigued by this ‘Heston Blumenthal’-esque offering of molecular gastronomy, so with an open mind we begin. Following an amuse bouche of the popular street food, ‘pani puri’, served as a molecular sphere on a spoon that literally explodes in your mouth to reveal an abundance of authentic flavours, expectations are high for the main event.
If you are here to talk, you can expect your conversation to be interrupted by the drama of a deconstructed ‘chaat’, India’s ubiquitous street food, being prepared with flair tableside, with the use of liquid nitrogen. A chaat is basically many different textures, such as ‘dhokla’ a savoury Indian sponge which comes from Gujerat in North India, which is broken into pieces and combined with the pawa (spicy rice krispies) and ‘sev’, a spicy and crunchy vermicelli, added for texture. Lashings of tamarind, yoghurt and mint sauce bring the dish together and in this case are also given a generous sprinkling of pomegranate for an added sweetness. The use of the liquid nitrogen here freeze dries the dhokla and adds a different structure to the norm, while the smoke achieved while it’s being made results in an artistic dinner show.
Dishes thereafter arrive swiftly in a stream of seemingly never-ending plates. We are extremely impressed by the clever take on the traditional ‘anda burjee’ which is chopped spiced boiled eggs. At Tresind, they are served in mini parcels of kulcha bread as an-all-in-one portable delight, which are both flavourful and comforting. Mains of butter chicken and lamb shank, while still tasty, did not follow precedent and are fairly average, but amid plates of tuna salad served with chutney, puffed potatoes and slivers of filo, and a south Indian fish soup brought to our table with a flourish in between, these were easily forgotten.
We end with the ‘daulat ki chaat’, a traditional dish from Old Delhi peddled on the streets, which is typically frothy sweet whisked milk, served with fruit and nuts. However, this version is a ball of the lightest, fluffy cream imaginable, which is effortless on both the spoon and the stomach. Adorned with a sprinkling of edible 24 carat gold dust and a crumbling of ‘soan papdi’, a popular Indian dessert which possesses a crisp, flaky texture, it is quite simply, one of the most sublime dessert experiences we have ever had.
Tresind can be a hit and miss at times, but overall, with every plate beautifully presented and a feast for the eyes, this is a thoroughly enjoyable meal that entices the senses and makes for an interactive experience for true foodies.
INFO: 12noon-3pm and 7pm-12midnight, Radisson Royal Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, 04 308 0440, www.tresind.com
Top 3 Must-Try Dishes
Modernist chaat trolley Dhs110
Anda burjee kulcha Dhs50
Daulat ki chaat Dhs75
TRESIND’S DAULAT KI CHAAT
1 tsp cardamom powder
2 tsp ghee (clarified butter)
100g soan papdi
1 tsp gold dust
2 tsp rose petals A handful of pistachios and almonds, finely chopped
YOU WILL ALSO NEED
Moulds for each pudding
An ice bath, large enough for all four moulds
1 Place the milk in a saucepan and heat over a moderately high heat.
2 Add the ghee and the sugar.
3 Bring to the boil and reduce until a paste-like consistency is achieved.
4 Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
5 Place the reduced milk into a deep bowl.
6 Add the cream and blend with an electric hand mixer to make a smooth sauce.
7 Add the cardamom powder to the sauce.
8 Place the mixture into moulds and then place in the ice bath for 30 minutes or until set.
9 Remove the daulat ki chaat from the mould with the aid of a spoon. Place in the centre of your plate.
10 Crumble the soan papdi around the dessert.
11 Garnish with the chopped almonds and pistachios and serve immediately or refrigerate until required.