Restaurant Review: Tre by Roberto Rella

Simple Italian cuisine in an ultra-chic setting
ByJasmine BandaliTuesday , 02 June 2015
Restaurant Review: Tre by Roberto Rella

When you think about the very finest authentic Italian cuisine in the region, there are two restaurants that instantly spring to mind – BiCE and Roberto’s. The one common denominator between the two, is restaurateur Roberto Rella, who was headhunted by the former to manage their restaurant empire, which led to the latter opening of the eponymous and perpetually packed fine dining concept in DIFC. However, Rella himself has parted ways with Roberto’s but as his illustrious career dictates, this is not a man to rest on his laurels. Instead, he recently opened Tre (the Italian for three), in a nod to the different concepts it incorporates, based on the foundation of simple and traditional Italian flavours.

The sprawling establishment takes up floors 49 to 51 of the Radisson Royal Hotel and as such, the view of Dubai’s magnificent sparkly skyline is the first thing to hit you upon entering, as it shines in all its glory. Foodies are more likely to revel on the lowest floor where the main dining room allows edibles to take centre stage, complete with crudo bar boasting all manner of raw Italian fare. Floor 50 is the place to unwind post dinner with a digestive in its lounge setting, or to grab a quick bite, with tapas sharing plates. The uppermost floor, more of a gentleman’s retreat, is a sound-proofed cigar lounge with live jazz performances and an easy listening soundtrack in which to unwind.

While the food is an exciting prospect, the experience is made all the more complete with true Italian hospitality, which is so abundant that it borders on affection. Our waiter Luca is never more than a few feet away, yet his presence is unobtrusive and he is completely on the ball. We begin with starters of a burratini, the cutest little burrata which is perfectly complimented by wafer thin slices of bresaola, which we dress with lemon and olive oil to achieve a complex medley of flavours. We also opt to share the rather interesting sounding uovo 62 e truffe noir, comprised of an egg cooked at 62 degrees, dressed with asparagus, truffles and a generous sprinkling of crushed macadamias.

We continue with a second traditional pasta course before the main event, trying both the agnolotti Tre, a signature dish of melt in the mouth parcels of veal and a rather decadent mushroom risotto, topped with 18-carat gold leaf, drizzled with truffle oil that is sure to make you swoon. Mains of Dover sole dressed in a zingy butter lemon sauce follow, along with veal medallions cooked Josper style, with sides of veggies and velvety mashed potato.

I always think that to leave any Italian eatery without sampling dessert is a huge culinary opportunity missed, so we opt for the Ciccolato, a crisp chocolate orb that encases a combination of pistachio cake, toasted chocolate ganache and salted crumble, complete with a ‘Tre’ monogrammed chocolate ring that gives it the appearance of a mini Saturn. It’s gooey, crunchy and so mind-bogglingly perfect, it’s a definite must-try!

All in all, while it may be early days for Tre, there’s no doubt that Roberto Rella can turn any concept into gold, so we’re guessing that it won’t be long before this new kid on the block becomes a Dubai institution, delivering a multi-sensory experience that will ensure you’ll return time and time again.

INFO:  Restaurant 12noon-3pm, 7pm-11.30pm daily, Lounge 6pm-3am Tue-Sat, Bar 12noon-3am daily, Sheikh Zayed Road, 04 404 7700, www.tre.ae

3 must-try dishes
Uovo 62 e truffe noir, Dhs85
Risotto ‘Langhe’, Dhs120
Cioccolato, Dhs62

TRE’S CHOCOLATE FONDANT

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS
115g butter
170g bittersweet chocolate
3 eggs, separated
95g sugar, split into 65g and 30g portions
A few drops of vanilla essence
2 tsp cream of tartar
TO GARNISH
Sour cream
Cherries

METHOD
1 Preheat the oven to 180C.
2 Melt butter and chocolate together in a bowl set over a pan of boiling water, being mindful that the bowl doesn’t touch the water.
3 Whip the yolks with 65g sugar and a few drops of vanilla essence until pale and fluffy. Combine with the melted chocolate and butter mixture.
4 Whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar and 30g sugar until you achieve stiff peaks.
5 Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and then pour into four moulds.
6 Bake for 7 to 10 minutes.
7 Garnish with sour cream and cherries.

 

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