Restaurant Review: Morah, JW Marriott Marquis
Icon Arabia, the switched-on group behind fabulous Weslodge Saloon, has just launched Morah in the same location, the towering JW Marriott Marquis. The brand hails from over the pond, with branches in Toronto and Miami called Byblos – a name that was already trademarked here. These forerunners have been heavily marinated in praise since opening, with the Miami Herald and Huffington Post among the publications listing them as best in their regions.
I’m not a fan of the bright lighting, but the elegant two-storey venue has a fabulously glam cocktail bar on the top floor, and a central spiral staircase that leads diners downstairs to a Mediterranean-inspired menu with an emphasis on meat. There’s 48-hour short rib, Welsh lamb rack, 14-hour roasted lamb, prime ribeye, striploin, Wagyu and chargrilled spatchcock – all with bold seasoning, from sumac to za’atar. Yoghurt-baked brill, black cod, branzino with lime and Spanish octopus comprise the four fish options – I’d like to see a couple more.
Turkish pide – a close cousin of pizza that’s having its moment in the culinary spotlight right now – comes in six different varieties. But the fun really starts with the appetisers. Try the tuna with jalapeno, radish, squid ink chips, avocado and green schug (a hot sauce originating from Yemen), or the fig and greens with orange blossom vinaigrette, ackawi cheese, pistachio, sunflower seeds and kohlrabi, from the cabbage family. These bold and unusual combos are beautifully presented, so I suspect you’ll be seeing a lot of them in Instagram!
INFO: Morah, 71st and 72nd Floor, JW Marriott Marquis, Business Bay, 04 560 1799, firstname.lastname@example.org, morahdubai.com
Signature Dish: Wood-fired Pide
From wild mushroom with chilli and goat cheese to buffalo mozzarella, halloumi and tartufata, a rich truffle, mushroom and black olive paste, the mouth-watering choice of six pide will cause huge tableside deliberation.