Croatia is all grown up. Almost a generation after its bitter war, Croatia is redefining itself by re-gentrifying former Soviet buildings with chic luxury hotels, traditional restaurants and sleek boutiques, all set against a stunning coastline backdrop and old-fashioned Croatian charm. In the near two decades since Croatia gained its independence, the country has demonstrated great determination to move on, and not just by revitalising its tourism industry.

The country has joined the UN Security Council, abolished compulsory military service and hopes in the future to gain both NATO and EU membership. With its exquisite coastlines, dramatic beaches and traditional values, it’s no surprise Croatia’s tourism has grown alongside its independence. Tourism accounted for more than 5 percent of the country’s GDP in 2007, but the figure is expected to increase in the coming years.

Croatia’s Tourist Board’s message is simple, “The Mediterranean as it once was.”

So unlike the Mediterranean’s hasty entrance into the heady world of cheap package holidays and soaring concrete high rises, Croatia has refreshingly maintained a strong determination not to let tourism wreak havoc as demonstrated in so many other popular tourist hot spots.

As budget airlines have opened the country up to mass tourism, Croatia has ensured that Venetian style buildings are lovingly restored, national parks are perfectly preserved and the new breed of hotels are well-thought out and subtly integrated into existing scenery.

Boasting Mediterranean weather throughout the summer, Croatia’s Dalmatian coast in the south of the country is home to three of its most popular islands Havr, Korcula and Brac. Closely located, the islands are within easy distance of each other, making an ideal route for those who don’t like to stay in one place for too long.

Havr
A favourite of the young jet set yachting fraternity, Havr island is not exactly one of Croatia’s best kept secrets but is now firmly on the map as one of the places to visit during the summer.

The island is home to just 3,000 locals, but numbers swell to 30,000 during the tourist season.

Tourists young and old converge to drink coffee on the island’s main square during the day and sip cocktails at its many coffee shops-cum-bars and clubs by night.

A short ferry ride from mainland Split, the island features traditional Venetian architecture and plenty of spectacular modern-day yachts, which line the quay side of the popular Havr Town. Other less well-known spots on the lavender covered island are the quieter towns of Jesla and Stari Grad.

In Havr Town, the local hotel chain Suncani Havr Hotels, has transformed all of the island’s key hotel venues and restaurants. The chain now owns a number of four and five-star hotels around the island, the pinnacle being it’s newly refurbished 300-plus room Amfora, which sits at the peak of the town and offers fantastic views of the bay and plenty of water sports activities.

Unlike many Mediterranean hot spots Croatia isn’t famous for its long stretching sandy beaches, but don’t let that put you off. All guests at any Suncani hotel on the island have access to the Amfora’s vast swimming pool (in addition to a 10 per cent discount at any of its 30 venues on the island). And if you are really looking to relax, head to the Bonj les Bains, with its recently renovated 1930s changing rooms overlooking Havr Town’s bay where guests can enjoy early morning yoga sessions and al fresco beauty treatments.

Or do as the locals do and pitch up at a small spot, lay a towel down on the pebbly beach and jump into the clear waters. There are even a few ‘open gardens’ in local houses with access to the sea.

In the evening Havr comes alive. Daytime coffee shops are transformed into quay side bars and the island’s bustling restaurants are open for business. Havr is home to exclusive restaurants as well as charming rooftop terrace eateries, many of which are Italian-inspired. Cultural enthusiasts should check out the Venetian Citadel with its display of Greek and Roman finds, a 15th century Dominican Monastery and the former home of the 16th century poet, Petar Hektorovic.

Korcula
What Havr boasts in nightlife, Korcula beats with history. The quiet Venetian island is said to be the birthplace of the great explorer Marco Polo. The story cannot be proven but the island is currently working on the restoration of his alleged family home.

Restoration is still not yet complete but visitors can walk to the top of the tower and view Korcula’s main tourist district.

The 46.8km island is the second most populated Adriatic island and features plenty of tiny villages making it an ideal hot spot for keen walkers.

Korcula Town is where the main passenger ferries dock and is home to the Old Town, one of the best preserved medieval centres in all Dalmatia and the island’s biggest tourist attraction.

No more than a hundred meters wide, the Old Town features typical Venetian herringbone streets framed by Gothic and Renaissance styles, which were applied to the final phase of construction of the city walls and towers.

Visitors to the island should try and catch a performance of the traditional local sword dance, the Moreska, which is performed every Thursday at the Ljetno Kino, a small open-air stage right on the edge of the Old Town.

The dance, which originates from Spain, can now only be seen in Korcula where it has been performed for the last 400 years.

On the other side of the island is Vela Luka – famous for its olive oil and hiking and cycling trails.

Brac
The island of Brac is one of the closest to the mainland making it an ideal choice for a day visit for those with little time.

The biggest of the Dalmatian islands has something for everyone but is best known for its water sports offerings and it is particularly inviting for windsurfing enthusiasts and scuba divers.

With mainland ferry connections, the town of Brac is the international tourist stop of the island and features true Mediterranean spirit with narrow, stony roads and wide piazzetas.

To the south of the island is the small town of Bol, which features the country’s most famous and photographed beach, Zlatni Rat.

The tiny town has long been a popular tourist attraction because of its wide gravel and sandy beaches, which stretch over 10km long and are set against the backdrop of the rising Bol hills and the Illyrian fortress Kostilo and the highest top of the Adriatic islands, Vidova gora.

Capital info: Zagreb
Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, is a dazzling place. The city is divided into three parts: the thousand-year old Gornji grad (upper town) which contains the Presidential Palace, the historic church of St. Mark’s, the Croatian parliament, and museums and galleries which are all set in cobbled streets lit by gas lamps; the 19th century Donji grad (lower town) with its shops, restaurants, cafes, theatres, parks; and the modern post-war (WWII) Novi Zagreb (new Zagreb).

Zagreb is called a city of museums as there are more of them per square foot than any other city in the world. But this doesn’t mean that there is nothing else for you to do if you aren’t a history buff.

One of the many pleasures that the Zagrebcani (the people of Zagreb) enjoy is sitting in one of the numerous cafes watching the world go by. In the evening, you can visit one of the many restaurants, sampling a delicious Croatian dish, and finish the day in the one of the myriad bars and clubs.

Top tips for Havr

Where to stay
At Suncani’s Adriana Hotel for chic rooms and some of the best views on the island. First Class also recommends an al fresco massage overlooking the main bay at the in-house Sensori C spa and drinks at the hotel’s minimalist rooftop terrace bar.

Where to eat
At either of the restaurants at Meneghello on the nearby island of Palmižana. This family-run complex is set in lush greenery and features regular fashion shows, art openings as well as accommodation and two restaurants, Palmižana Meneghello and Toto’s Beach Restaurant, both featuring local produce.

What to do
Take a day trip to the tiny island of Stipanka, home of the sister bar to one of Hvar’s most popular night spots, Carpe Diem. The chill-out bar is open from 10am to 7pm.

Top tips for Korcula

Where to stay
Very few of Korcula’s hotels have changed much since their 1980s offerings but standards are set to raise considerably when the Lesic Dimitri Palace opens in June 2009. The 18th century bishop’s palace and five medieval cottages, are currently undergoing renovations to convert it into a chic five star hotel with resturant and spa.

Where to eat
Italian influences ensure the island doesn’t lack in pizza and pasta offerings. Fish lovers should make the most of the local fish and seafood at one of the island’s many restaurants.

What to do
Venture outside of Korcula Town and visit the tiny fisherman’s village of Lumbarda, home to the island’s only sandy beach, Vela Przina. The beach gets crowded in the summer so get there early to ensure a good spot. The village, home to 500 inhabitants is also well known for its vineyards and production of the local wine, GRK.

Top tips for Brac

Where to stay
The four star Palace Dešković is situated in small harbour town of Pucisca. Much of this boutique’s charm comes from the original late Renaissance building, which was built in 1497 and is now registered as a cultural monument at the Historic Buildings Institute in Split.

Where to eat
Famous for its wines which are sold all over Croatia, practically everything served at the Konoba Tomic restaurant is made on site making it an ideal destination for keen eco-tourists looking for a little authenticity.

What to do
No tourist to Brac should leave without trying its most famous tourist attraction, its water sports, including windsurfing and scuba diving.